shrimp rice noodle rolls (cheung fun) - smelly lunchbox (2024)

What are shrimp rice noodle rolls?

Shrimp rice noodle rolls, aka cheung fun (肠粉), are a classic in Cantonese dim sum. They're easily one of my favorite go-to orders! The best ones are soft, slightly chewy, and a bit stretchy, and there are multiple options for the filling. Some of the most common being shrimp, beef mince, char siu, or Chinese fried donut. I’ll be sharing a recipe for a steamed shrimp rice roll here, but the same batter can be used if you wish to substitute the filling. I have a recipe for steamed rice noodle rolls with beef here!

Traditionally, steamed rice roll batter is made from ground aged rice, and they’re typically steamed in a large stainless steel, multi-layered tray (see this video documenting the process from Joe’s Steam Rice Roll in New York) or on a cloth (see this video). To make this recipe more accessible for homecooks, we’ll use ingredients and tools that you can easily find at your local Asian supermarket (like 99 Ranch) or on Amazon.

How to make the ideal shrimp rice noodle roll batter

Many recipes call for a mixture of just rice flour and tapioca starch for the batter. However, I found that using just these two yielded a more firm rice roll. They didn’t have that same softness and stretchiness I craved from a really good steamed rice roll. Adding the potato starch is key in helping achieve that characteristic soft and stretchy texture. Some recipes use wheat starch, but it's a bit harder to find in grocery stores compared to potato starch. If you prefer a more firm and less translucent rice roll without the potato starch, I recommend trying a different recipe to get the ideal ratio of ingredients.

How to make rice noodle roll sauce

Rice noodle roll sauce is usually a diluted soy sauce that’s slightly sweet and just salty enough to add flavor to the rolls but not overpower the dish. The recipe I gave below for the sauce is the simplest sauce that achieves this. However, you are always welcome to add aromatics like garlic, ginger, or spices. So much work is already going into the rice roll itself — I wanted to keep the sauce simple but tasty.

After testing dozens of batches, I’ve learned a few things I want to share to make sure you have the most success making these at home. Please read through the post and watch the video!

My best tips for getting great shrimp rice noodle rolls at home

Tip #1: Marinate the shrimp in a bit of baking soda and salt*

This is often what restaurants do to achieve the crisp and snappy shrimp texture. It’s a tiny amount of baking soda, so you won’t be able to taste it.

*Salt is likely not necessary in the marinade if you are using frozen shrimp, because most frozen shrimp contains added salt to help preserve them during the freezing process. For the longest time, I couldn’t figure out why my frozen shrimp kept turning out too salty when I was adding the tiniest amount of salt… Check your packaging!

Tip #2: Steam the shrimp separately from the batter

Steaming the shrimp first, and separately, really makes the process much simpler!

When I steamed the shrimp with the rice roll batter, I’d have to steam the batter for a few minutes first, then add the raw shrimp, and then steam it for another few minutes (a lot of extra steps).

If I added the shrimp with the batter at the same time, the batter under the shrimp wouldn’t cook. Additionally, the shrimp would release moisture while cooking that would leak onto the batter.

Steaming them together unfortunately just added more steps and cook time to the overall process, so I recommend steaming the shrimp first and separate from the batterto make things easier for yourself!

Tip #3: Whisk the rice roll batter very thoroughly before adding it to the plate to steam

Whenever you mix water with a starch, the starch tends to settle at the bottom of the bowl over time. Whisking the batter very thoroughly each time before ladling it onto the plate is key. This ensures you don’t end up with a cracked steamed rice roll (I definitely had a few of these)!

Tip #4: Let the steamed rice roll rest before assembling

This is really, really important! The type of pan you use to steam your rice rolls will affect how long the rice roll needs to rest. If you don’t let the rice roll rest long enough, it will be too soft and gummy and won’t roll.

When I used these small rectangular sheet pans made of stainless steel, which didn’t retain heat well and cooled very quickly (a good thing), I was able to assemble the rice rolls almost immediately after steaming.

However, when I used a porcelain plate or glassware, which stayed hot for several minutes after steaming, I had to wait at least 4-5 minutes before assembling.

• To speed up this resting process, put the plate or pan on top of some cold water.

Rule of thumb: let the pan rest until it’s no longer hot to touch, then it’s ready to roll.

Tools you’ll need to make steamed rice rolls at home:

Steamer, this can be…

• a bamboo steamer*, or
• a metal trivet* that can hold a plate flat, or
• a rice roll steamer: I haven’t tried this specific brand, but am just linking to show what a typical rice roll steamer looks like. This is similar to the tool that most restaurants use, and can help save cooking time as you can steam multiple trays at a time.

*you can find these for much cheaper at your local Asian grocery store

Plates or pans for steaming the rice rolls on, some options…

• small rectangular sheet pans, or
  • these are the ones I use! They're the perfect shape to fit into a bamboo steamer, and the material cooled down very quickly. This meant that I was able to assemble the rolls almost immediately after they were steamed.
  • my parents use stainless steel plates which work great as well!
• non-stick baking pan, or
  • most people have these at home! They work great as long as you can fit it into your pan and be able to cover the pan’s lid securely. Would likely work better with a metal trivet + wok setup than a bamboo steamer.
• a regular plate
  • I experimented with a regular porcelain plate and it totally works! Just know that porcelain stays hot for very long compared to the above 2 options. This means you have to let the steamed rice rolls rest on it much longer before you’re able to roll it. Otherwise, the rice roll will be too soft and gummy and won’t roll.

Highly recommended tools for making steamed rice rolls at home:

• A silicone spatula or plastic bench scraper to help during the rolling process
• A whisk to thoroughly mix the batter

Two common issues you might encounter:

1. Why does my steamed rice roll have cracks after steaming?

   • Solution: This likely means the starch has settled while steaming — while you can’t fix the cracked rice roll, just remember to whisk the batter very thoroughly before ladling in the next batch
   • If you whisked it thoroughly and you still have cracked steamed rice rolls, then it likely means you need more water in your batter

2. The steamed rice roll has a gummy texture, and is too soft to roll

   • Solution: This likely means you haven’t let the rice roll rest for enough time yet. Wait a few minutes and try again. Remember that if you’re using a plate or pan that stays hot for a long time after steaming, you’ll need to rest it for a longer period, and you should only start assembling when it’s no longer hot to the touch.
   • If the above solution doesn’t work, it might mean that you didn’t steam the rice roll for long enough.

Check out my other popular Chinese dim sum recipes:

• Steamed Rice Rolls with Beef
• Chinese Turnip Cake (lo bak go)
• Chinese Pineapple Buns (shortcut version)

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Please note that the flour and starches are ideally measured in grams for better consistency. I’ve also provided the imperial system measurements in case you don’t have a kitchen scale